We rarely accept invitations, but we like the person, Csaba Harmath who is behind the concept of Terminál, since he helped us launch our blog with useful comments and advice. So we said yes to a lunch together. No one else can be as embarrassing in a restaurant. He can spot the most insignificant problem and then immediately brings it up. This was one of the reasons why I wanted to see him in his own restaurant: what kind of place is run by a person who pays attention to every bit of detail and does he notice problems when he is the boss?
I got the answer to the second question in no time: in the first five minutes, Csaba made the staff run around several times and criticized the food more than an average restaurant manager would in the first year. I told him I would certainly not want to be one of his employees, but I would be happy to eat at his place any time because the menu he ordered for us, which lacked any sense in terms of quantity, was almost perfect all the way. Its quality is unquestionable, but at the same time it doesn’t set such a high standard that a person needs to be educated to appreciate it.
Here are the courses.
Strawberry soup with basil and mozzarella: it sounds quite absurd, I know. But it’s awesome. It’s like spring, fresh, both salty and sweet. I would never have ordered it myself, but if you trust me just a little, you’ll taste it as soon as you can. Strawberry season is coming. (HUF 1190 Ft)
Duck consommé with its liver (HUF 1490):
Goulash soup from beef cheek: recently I had a wonderful goulash at La Maréda in Győr and I wondered how the goulash cooked in Terminál would compare to it. I was even more curious to see how Csaba makes this dish after a year or so ago he meticulously analyzed the goulash in a downtown restaurant and explained why every single ingredient was bad in it. The meat was hard and from the wrong cut, the vegetables were overcooked. He explained in detail all his objections to the waiter who was adjusting his weight from one leg to the other. I wonder how things are in that restaurant now, but Terminál’s goulash is really good: the beef cheek is tender and adequately fatty, the vegetables are all tender but crisp, and the heat is just enough so you don’t want to add anything. Five stars. (HUF 1490)
Homemade ripened beef sirloin: a likeable, well-composed and light plate, but my favorite was something else.
Chicken Caesar salad: Csaba loves it and it’s really good, but it only excited me a little because... (HUF 2390)
...the potato salad arrived with green asparagus, smoked trout and boiled egg. Now this one was really fantastic. If the only thing you want to have in the city center is a fish salad, that’s what you should try. Especially for HUF 1980.
Veal stew with curd cheese noodles: I’m running short of words now and I’m saving the best ones for my favorites. Suffice it to say that there’s nothing to criticize: it’s clearly a stew with all the necessary flavors and substance but for some reason it’s lighter than usual (HUF 2790).
Supreme chicken with spring vegetables: those of you who like chicken will love it. I don’t like chicken (HUF 2890).
Mascarpone homemade pasta with three kinds of peas and prosciutto. DEAR GOD. I’m usually not crazy about pasta either. For me something that did not walk on four feet is not food. This one had ham in it, but that’s not what sells it. It’s a fantastic, fresh, crisp and tender, exciting and perfect dish. (HUF 2490)
Rib-eye steak (at this point I began to feel sick): quite good. The meat was tender and enjoyably fatty (had it been a bit more underdone, it would have been even better), taking over the flavors of the vegetables and thus creating a Mediterranean impression. I would never have thought there was anything like an overall Mediterranean impression but after having the rib eye I immediately realized that it was real (HUF 5980).
Elderberry and gooseberry mille-feuille: compared to how much I struggled with spelling the French words, it wasn’t unforgettable. Ok, but it was the least significant item on the menu (HUF 1290).
Curd cheese dumplings with soured cream: I liked this one a lot more, but after tasting it, Csaba jumped up and started explaining something to the staff with a serious face. I have no idea what made him so upset about this pleasant, likeable dessert (HUF 1290).
Lemon cake with lemon kompot: a worthy counterpart to the mascarpone homemade pasta. A perfect, powerful, exciting and fresh dessert. Whatever you have beforehand, close the menu with this one (HUF 1290).
They stuffed a total of 13 courses into me. No wonder that now, as I’m writing this article, five hours after lunch I still cannot think of eating. Well, I can, but it hurts. Of course, I did not devour everything; by the end of lunch I was just picking at the food. The portions were perfect, three courses are more than enough. The menu offers such a wide selection and the meals are so playfully delicious that in some sense Terminal fills a gap in the city center. I wonder what Csaba would say if he just dropped by as an independent critic. I’m sure he would find fault with everything (that’s what he actually did), but this place passed my test easily.
You should account for HUF 6000 per head for three courses and wine.
TERMINÁL Étterem & Bár
1051 Budapest
Erzsébet tér 13.
Translation provided by Helpers Business and Immigration Services. Find us at www.helpers.hu
You may find the original article here.
